My sleeping system for Denali labored a deal with and ensured I at all times loved evening’s sleep on North America’s highest peak
The coldest I’ve ever been in my life was whereas climbing Denali – hardly stunning contemplating it’s one of many coldest and windiest locations within the USA. In the course of the expedition, there have been a number of occasions after I felt the chilly intensely, a lot in order that I even suffered some gentle frostbite on my fingers after we have been delayed on the fastened ropes for a number of hours. That stated, I used to be by no means chilly when safely cocooned in my sleeping bag.
For this expedition, I up to date my sleeping system utterly. Every bit of equipment was new. It turned out to be the most effective selections I ever made when it got here to tenting. I slept soundly each evening and whereas the shortage of oxygen on the increased camps could have been discomfiting at occasions, the chilly by no means stored me awake. Regardless of making my mattress on a glacier for 18 nights in a row, my new sleeping system meant that I used to be at all times heat, cosy and in a position to get evening’s sleep even in temperatures as little as -30°C (-22°F).
Sleeping system for Denali
It’s not rocket science that being well-rested improves efficiency, notably on an extended and difficult expedition. Under, I share particulars of my full sleeping system for Denali and the way I stayed heat on one of many world’s most hostile mountains.

Sleeping bag
A sleeping bag for Denali must be rated to -30°C (-22°F). I went additional and opted for a Marmot CWM Sleeping Bag rated to -40°C (-40°F). It could be the final sleeping I ever purchase and could possibly be used on future expeditions corresponding to Everest or Vinson if I ever make it to them.
Inside, the bag is crammed with 800-fill-power premium down whereas the skin is lined with a water-proof membrane which did an ideal job of protecting me dry. Each morning, I woke as much as discover hoarfrost – frozen condensation – lining each floor within the tent together with the skin of my sleeping bag. Nonetheless, even after it melted through the day, the moisture by no means acquired contained in the bag.
The Marmot CWM has a centre zip which I discovered far more comfy than a aspect zip. It additionally makes it simpler to get out and in of the bag. There are twin aspect zippers for air flow which you’ll put your arms by way of if required. Contained in the bag, there are a number of inner storage pockets, together with one which is zippered, preferrred for protecting electronics heat.
The sleeping bag comes with a stuff sack, which – regardless of the bag’s loft – compresses down nicely utilizing the sack’s drawcords. Lastly, the sleeping bag’s inner hood supplies loads of loft for a cushty pillow whereas the draft collar matches snugly to stop warmth loss.
Inflatable sleeping pad
I’ve had mummy-shaped inflatable sleeping pads up to now and, invariably, sooner or later through the evening, I get up chilly as a minimum of a part of me – normally my toes – has slipped off the pad. I wished to keep away from this on Denali so went for a full rectangular pad within the Therm-a-Relaxation NeoAir XTherm NXT MAX.

I’ve used Therm-a-Relaxation pads since my Aconcagua climb in 2020 and so they have proved comfy and dependable. The XTherm NXT MAX provides their “finest warmth-to-weight ratio ever” and likewise has an up to date valve which permits for quicker and simpler inflation, one thing that’s enormously appreciated at excessive altitudes the place the air is thinner. The pad additionally comes with a pump sack, stuff sack and subject restore equipment included.
Foam sleeping pad
On Denali, guiding firms insist on two sleeping pads and advocate utilizing a mixture of inflatable and foam pads to insulate towards the chilly from beneath. The Z Lite SOL is Therm-a-Relaxation’s lightest and most compact closed-cell mattress.
Their newest pad has an improved reflective coating on the floor which displays radiant warmth again to your physique. This works alongside the big heat-trapping dimples on the pad to extend general heat by virtually 15%. The pad simply folds up compactly so it may be carried on the skin of your pack and used as a sitting pad.
Pillow
I didn’t take a pillow with me as I discovered that my sleeping bag’s inner hood coupled with my down jacket offered sufficient assist. That stated, I used to be extraordinarily jealous of my tent mate’s Sea to Summit Aeros Down Pillow. He let me try it out and it was extremely comfy and heat in comparison with the inflatable pillows I’ve used up to now. At simply 190g, additionally it is tremendous mild and I used to be impressed with how a lot it packed down. It’s on my ‘to-buy’ checklist for my subsequent expedition.
Nightwear
Usually, I used to be heat sufficient in my sleeping bag so simply slept in my underwear with a base layer on prime. On the increased camps, I placed on base-layer bottoms and a prime and stored my mid-layer down jacket in my sleeping bag which I generally placed on in the beginning of the evening. Nonetheless, normally, I acquired too heat and took it off.

In case you are somebody who runs notably chilly then you could possibly choose to put on an additional layer corresponding to your down jacket or down swimsuit in your sleeping bag. This may enhance the sleeping bag’s efficiency score by as a lot as 20°C (68°C).
Liner
That is totally non-obligatory and right down to desire. A liner can work as a barrier towards any vapour that may construct up in your bag and prolong the temperature vary of your sleeping bag. I don’t use a liner and the above sleeping bag system doesn’t require one. Nonetheless, when you would favor to make use of a liner, then go for a silk one. Silk is extraordinarily light-weight and compact however nonetheless insulates nicely in chilly climate whereas remaining absorbent and breathable.
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